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A hot pixel can range from bright white to something just barely distinguishable from black. Or, we might say, from an artifact to noise.
Astronomers who use CCDs to record the night life of celestial bodies have long dealt with this phenomenon. If you think you have problems, see http://ecf.hq.eso.org/newsletter/stecf-nl-22/freudling/freudling.html for example. They typically take very long exposures, and are concerned that dark current and hot pixels, producing measurable noise in repeatable patterns, are not confused with actual data. So they've developed techniques for masking them out of the picture or the data.
Some of these are applicable to digicam night photography. Rob Galbraith's
site for digital photojournalists (http://www.robgalbraith.com/)
proposes one technique that is helpful in shots of fireworks (http://www.robgalbraith.com/reports/shooting_fireworks.html).
Galbraith's technique relies on the Quantum Mechanic Photoshop plug-in at http://www.camerabits.com/QM.html.
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"A hot pixel can range from bright white to something just
barely distinguishable from black."
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And don't forget Mike Chaney's Qimage Pro program for Windows (http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/imaging/),
which can remove image noise without significantly affecting detail.
But with exposures of a quarter second or less, hot pixels just shouldn't appear
in your images. If they do, you've got a returnable product.
To see your camera's hot pixels, set the camera to do no image manipulation
or enhancement. Use ISO 100 (if you have variable ISO settings), turn off any
sharpening, contrast, or brightness settings. Assuming your indoor temperature
is less than 76° F, go into a dark room, turn off the LCD monitor, cover
the lens, and make exposures of 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2, and 4 seconds.
Then take a look at these "dark frame" images. Higher magnification (say, 400 percent) makes it easier to see noise. You should expect to see a gradual increase in noise relative to the exposure length. If you find one bright pixel at every exposure setting, repeat the test with shorter exposures. You may find it does not disappear at any exposure. If that's the case, save your results to document the problem for the manufacturer and try the test again.
Given that any CCD is going to exhibit some noise in a dark frame image, consider whether what you have is something you can live with. If you typically take long night exposures, it may not be acceptable. But remember, there's no escape. Astronomers have learned to live with the devil they know, rather than look for that elusive, perfect CCD.
This article is reprinted from The Imaging Resource Digital Photography Newsletter,
Advanced Mode Column, published August 11, 2000
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